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As the Akademik Shokalskiy approaches the Antarctic coastline, the landscape changes dramatically. The sea becomes becalmed as it fills with pack ice, which the ship cuts through like a hot knife through butter. We sail up close to our first major iceberg and take an excursion by dinghy on the ice floes to say hello to some of the local wildlife, including crab-eater seals and Adelie penguinsGuardian journalists Alok Jha and Laurence Topham are with the Australasian Antarctic Expedition